017 ALL IN GOOD TIME
MY LITTLE NEW YEAR'S BIG FIT
Regardless of whether I’m hitting the town or hitting the couch, it’s always been important to me to put on my personal Best in Show for New Year’s Eve. It’s one of the biggest nights of celebration—if not the biggest—of the year. I don’t know what my plans are, let alone yours. However, even if no one sees me but one other person, or my neighbor in the elevator, or a (pent?)house party full of people, I want to “show up and show off,” as my friend Dowse says.
NYE is three days away, and all I’ve been thinking about is what my fancy watch option would be if I had my pick (with the coat and cuffs to match). We’ll add some shiny-ish shoes and voilà —you are ready.
Though we aren’t going for Black Tie, we are going for Black Tie-adjacent, and with that, Jack Forster talked in Hodinkee about the longstanding snafus involved with wearing a watch for formal wear, (“White Tie, Black Tie, And Watches: Is It Ever Okay To Wear A Watch With A Tux?”). The general impression is that it tells the host and other guests that you have somewhere else to be later on, but Jack’s article will tell you much more about those traditional codes. There’s also the old guideline that if you’re going to wear a watch with formal attire, it should be made of a white metal—stainless, platinum, or white gold. IMHO, some of these rules are about as relevant today as “only white wine with fish.” I wear all yellow gold jewelry because it looks better with my skin tone, and I’d likely opt for a gold watch regardless of the occasion. (Though I could be persuaded to wear a platinum Patek 5040P or 3940P if the opportunity arises.)
Hopefully we can all agree that no matter what or where you are going, a black suit is welcome, but seeing as it’s New Year’s, I’m gunning for something with personality. J. Mueser comes to the rescue with the classically proportioned Waverly Suit in beautiful black corduroy. It’s a smaller gauge, 11 Wale corduroy, which means it’s fine enough for New Year’s, but durable enough to end up where I do.
I’m very particular about my collar. Thankfully the small collar trend died off with the aughts, — I truly do not think it’s flattering on anyone — though it did make contemporary shirting collars generally smaller. A few brands are still doing God’s work, and while they charge a premium, it’s worth it. Then we tackle the placket issue. I’m not usually a fan of a concealed placket—but when done right, it’s very elegant and formal. In the end, I was won over by Drake’s Long Point Dinner Shirt. The long-point collar and single-needle construction are perfect, and it hides those pesky buttons beautifully. At $295, it's easier to swallow than some.
If you are going with a formal shirt, you should probably have a bow tie handy as well. La Bowtique make’s some of the finest around, I am fond of a larger bowtie myself, and this one does the job perfectly.
My own BODE Opera Pumps have already been a close contender for my favorite shoe for a couple of years. Made by a third-generation Italian shoe factory, the comfort level is surprisingly high for a dressy pump that can take you all over town if needed. I made the mistake of buying a size too big (to be rectified ASAP), but even still, they’re surprisingly cozy on the toes. Aesthetically, they’re designed for formal attire— complete with wide bow— but that doesn’t stop me from wearing them with jeans and thin bright socks the rest of the time.
As a jeweler, my thought is that cufflinks should match all your jewelry or be nearly nonexistent. For this outfit I went with the latter, with sparkle. These vintage Cartier cufflinks have a center diamond in a mother of pearl surround, and a rim of rock crystal. I’m stunned.
However long I spent writing and sourcing this story, 80% of the labor went to choosing this watch. I finally settled on this Rolex Oyster Perpetual Reference 1002 from 1966. I wanted to pick a watch that was somewhat achievable in price, and you don’t have to spend /a lot/ to get a lot with certain vintage Rolex. It’s the correct size, (under 36mm), not too thick (needs to fit under the sleeve), and without complications.
It’s 14kt yellow gold—rare for the time and typically indicates it was made for the American market. What really sets it apart is the commemorative engraving—20 years of service by a H.W. Valentine to Schlumberger. Schlumberger, one of America’s most famous jewelry designers, intersects with many significant moments in jewelry history. He was designing alongside American greats like Oscar Heyman, Verdura, and David Webb. In 1946, Schlumberger and his childhood friend and business partner, Nicolas Bongard, opened a boutique on East 63rd Street in Manhattan after returning from the war.
This means Mr. Valentine of the inscription was one of their first employees—and surely earned that gold watch! In 1956, Schlumberger was asked by Walter Hoving, (then Chairman of Tiffany & Co.), to join Tiffany & Co. as Vice President. A special design studio and salon were decorated to the designer’s specifications. He would become a household name shortly after. I’m deducing that Mr. Valentine might have been an influence in the initial moments of Schlumberger x Tiffany—coincidentally around the same time Rolex started being sold at Tiffany boutiques. Could this have been purchased at Tiffany and gifted by Schlumberger to Valentine? Is an unstamped Tiffany Dial even a thing? (🤯) As a jeweler obsessed with the lore of my industry’s history, these are the puzzles that make my world go round, and would be a marvelous way to ring in any new year.
*I would however put it on a black strap for NYE.
BONUS WATCH
If you have a bit more to spend and are looking for a classic formal watch, I would go with the Patek 2509J. The design is timeless and beautiful to every eye.
